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Venturing into the Interior



The beautiful valley of Wellington



Historic Wellington



Cummings Hall - one of Wellington's historical educational buildings.



A fruite farm in Wellington



Dried fruit packed at the SADF (Co-op)



The Dutch Reformed Church in Wellington



Andrew Geddes Bain



In the early nineteenth century, the Cape was under British Occupation. Pioneer farmers from the Southern Cape interior battled to get their produce to the markets in Cape Town because of lack of infrastructure. Access from the Karoo, via Ceres and Worcester (the fertile Breede River Valley) was a particular problem.

Wellington (Wagenmakersvallei) lay along the route, but the inaccessible Limietberg mountains (the Dutch called it a mountain of limitations) obstructed the route. Later, Bainskloof Pass was used for trade as well as traffic.

In 1846, while searching for an access route, Andrew Bain noticed from the Houwhoek Pass that there was a natural break between the Limiet and Slanghoek mountains. The Pass was subsequently explored along an old cattle track which led to the Witteriver.

In 1848, Bain was given the ``Go Ahead." Convicts were used to Construct Bainskloof.

There are a number of INTERESTING SITES and related stories along the 30km stretch. It took four years to complete the Pass at a total cost of R100 000.

The charming little town of Wellington is situated 65km north-west of Cape Town along the main line to Kimberley and Johannesburg. It is one of the most progressive and culture-rich towns in the Western Cape Province.

Wellington, at the end of the 17th century, was known as WAGENMAKERSBVALLEI or ``VAL DU CHARON" - valley of the wagonmakers. It was the last white civilised outpost before the unknown interior. Here wagons were given a final ``check" before pioneers ventured into inhospitable land.

Today, 90% of Wellington farming is concentrated on vines. The area also produced 80% of the country's vine cuttings (stokkies) for new planting and replanting.

Wellington has 3 co-operative wine cellars - Bovlei, the oldest, is still operating since 1908. When the grapes were destroyed by phylloxera (a plant louse) in 1883 - 1885, farmers started planting fruit trees. The South African Dried Fruit Board (co-operative) was started in 1908 by a group of prune farmers for the selling of their dried fruits. At the impressive headquarters in Wellington, the packing, distributing, marketing and developing of new products takes place.

A very important figure in the history of Wellington is Dr. Andrew Murray, Dutch Reformed Minister in the 1870's. He realised that education for girls in the Cape was nonexistent. He, together with a Miss Furguson and Bliss established the Huguenot Seminary for girls in 1874.

Later it was changed to a teachers training college, still in existence today, as a training centre for social workers.

Wellingtonners generally have a lively interest in the arts. Amateur theatre, music productions and art exhibitions are held regularly.

Until recently, Wellington had the only piano factory in the Southern Hemisphere. Quite astonishing, as the founder, Mr Dietman, a German immigrant, was a mere piano tuner.

Another successful enterprise established by a foreigner in the last century is the Western Tanning Company. Mr J.H.Coaten, a Yorkshireman, began the leather Tannery in 1871 and still today it employs 700 people.

The culture-rich history of Wellington survives in the townsfolk. Mr Francois Malan, first curator of the museums's roots go back eight generations to his Huguenot forebear, Jacques Malan. Miss Ella Malan, interviewed in 1988, at the age of 96, witnessed the birth of the Afrikaans Language. She recalls her uncle, the first Dutch Reformed Minister, Rev S.J.du Toit translating the Bible from Dutch to Afrikaans. The Malans, Hofmeyrs, Jouberts and Retiefs have stayed in Wellington in an unbroken line.

If you would like to drink in a little history or a glass of Wellington wine, take the N1 from Cape Town and follow the signs. Head straight for the Information Bureau for when you get there.

ANDREW GEDDES BAIN

Andrew Geddes Bain was born in Thurso, Scotland in June 1797. He arrived in Cape Town in October 1816, at the age of 19. He married Marie Elizabeth von Backstrom, of German descent.

Four years later, they settled in Graaf Reinet in the Eastern Cape and had ten children - eight girls and two boys. He began road building. His son, Thomas was to become as illustrious a road maker as his father.

Andrew travelled the country extensively. The nature of his work brought him into daily contact with geological phenomena and he became fascinated with the science of geology. With his vast knowledge of the country, he built a comprehensive picture of the country's geology and geomorphology.

He also collected fossils and made some significant finds. His published research findings,``The Geology of South Africa", later earned him the title ``Father of South African Geology."

It was in his capacity as Inspector of Roads that he built Bainskloof Pass. This he considered his greatest achievement. Bain had no formal training in engineering. He died on 20th October, at the age of sixty five. He was a true South African and scientific genius. His road building benefited many South Africans and brought prosperity to many.

THE CONVICT SYSTEM

Slaves could not be used to build the pass, as the British had a abolished slavery in 1834.

Between 300 - 450 convicts were used at any one time. The convicts who built Bains Kloof Pass were from a wide variety of races - Hottentots, Bushmen, English, Irish, French, Dutch, Malay, Halfcast, American, Kafir, ex-slave and Coloured. All were treated equally.

Their crimes ranged from arson, robbery and rape to man-slaughter. They were given adequate food, accommodation, medical care and even spiritual and educational guidance. Diligent labour and good conduct were rewarded with money. Earning ``good conduct tickets"counted towards remission of sentence.

Many felons spent time being chained together - six on one chain. At various places along the pass, large iron rings are set into the rock as resting places for chain gangs

There are many convict legends by none as widely recorded as the antics of Convict No.1080 - the notorious ``Scotty" or ``Kwaai" Smith, a burglar. He could be regarded as having been the South African equivalent of Robin Hood. He made several unsuccessful attempts to escape when he was periodically unchained. One story has it that after one such attempt, he was forced to roll a boulder back and forth for hours on end. A newspaper report on the newly opened goal in Cape Town claimed that the cells were so secure that ``even Smith" would find it difficult if not impossible to overcome.

 CONSTRUCTION OF THE PASS

In 1849, Bain concentrated on building the Wellington (Western)side of the pass. His first task was to build a service road to allow passage for wagons, to haul material and set up accommodation. The gradient from the Wellington side until the Neck rose from 300m above sea level to 579m. Several gullies were filled and numerous retaining walls were built. Bain used a dry-masonry method of construction throughout (no cement). He attempted to build a tunnel on the western side, but it later caved in.

Stone wedges are interlocked. A series of wedges, sharp point down overlays a series of sharp wedges pointed upwards, course above course until the required height is reached.

Under load the one course compresses into the other, increasing the rigidity of the roadbed.

Building on the downslope side took three years to complete. Construction was far more difficult because of the hard quartzitic sandstone rocks. Two bridges were built. Besides retaining walls - some 20 metres high, parapets and kerb stones had to be erected. The kerb stones, each weighing about a ton, were positioned at 5 - 10 metre intervals.

The kerb stones were necessary to stop the oxen from wandering off the road.

It took 1608 working days (four years) and 53 days per kilometre to complete the 30km Pass.

Considering the terrain, this was a momentous accomplishment.

INTERESTING SITES

1. Brandewyn Draai
2. East and West Tunnel Portals and Bain's Relic.
3. Gawie se Water
4.. Hugo's rest
5. Convict graves at the Neck
6. Wolwekloof

1. BRANDEWYNDRAAI - A journalist travelling down from the Neck one day noticed that the oxwagon travelling in front of him was taking wider and wider bends as it went around each corner. Eventually the whole load of raisins and brandy toppled over and down into the river below. A farmer downstream recalls one morning when he could not fathom out why his drinking water tasted so very strange.

 2. EAST AND WEST TUNNEL PORTALS AND BAIN'S RELIC - foundation of presumably a store where Bain attempted to build the Tunnel.

3. GAWIE SE WATER - Gawie Retief, a local farmer dug a deep channel through the mountain to join the Witte River to the Krom River on the Wellington side to benefit the local farmers.

4. HUGO'S REST - a ruin, signposted, but not visible from the road, which burnt down in1949.Mr P.J.Hugo, prominent businessman from Wellington built the 25-roomed mansion for his retirement. His wife could not bear the solitude and the house was rarely occupied. In 1979, a young couple were brutally murdered there

Henceforth, there have been numerous ghost stories surrounding the ruin. It is alleged that Hugo diverted some of "Gawie se Water" for his swimming pool.

 5. THE NECK - Site of the main convict station and first Toll House. A few convict graves are found here. 

6. WOLWEKLOOF - site of the Breede River Convict Station, supervised by Bain's son, Thomas. The second Toll house was here (Tweede Tol) and Borcherd's Bridge lies just beyond DACRE'S PULPIT - a rock overhang, 3,8m above road level, which miraculously survived a blasting

 7. "SCOTTY'S RING" - a relic from the old convict days, used to chain down the convict.

 8. PILKINGTON, BORCHERD'S AND DARLING BRIDGES, MONTAGU, BISHOP'S and BELL'S ROCK.

Visit the Wellington Info Bureau for more Information.





Comments

I notice in your text the following phrase "Andrew Bain noticed from the Houwhoek Pass that there was a natural break between the Limiet and Slanghoek mountains" and I would like to comment on this. The fact that gravity can in fact bend light is now well known and was first put foreward by Albert Einstein and subsequently proven by Carrington in the early 1920's. Einsten received the Nobel Prize for this work.

Despite all this there is absolutely no way that Bain could have seen the gap you refer to while working on Houwhoek Pass as there is simply not enough mass in the intervening mountains to bend the light sufficiently. Bain would have to have been West of the Hottentots Holland Mountains to be able to see the gap in question. He in fact saw the Northern end of the kloof from the Breede River Valley while returning to Cape Town on horseback in the Company of John Montagu.

Subsequent inquiry led him to believe that the kloof "might go" as he is believed to have put it.

Posted by: Edward Foster



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