The ancient granite formations of the Matobo Hills, situated about 20 minutes by car from Bulawayo in Zimbabwe, are of great historical and spiritual significance, with art and artifacts dating back thousands of years.

No one can visit the Matobo Hills and stay unaffected by their brooding majesty. Situated in the heart of Matabelaland in Zimbabwe, these hills have long been the scene of ceremonies and rituals. Mzilikazi, founder of the Ndebele nation, gave the area its name. Apparently the smooth granite boulders reminded him of a gathering of his old indunas and he called the area amaTobo, 'the bald heads'. Mzilikazi is interred here in a hillside tomb. His possessions, including wagons and furniture, have been sealed for over a century in a cave nearby, and visitors can view this fascinating collection through small openings in the rocks.

It's hard to believe that this area of giant granite domes and precariously balanced boulders was once a flat and featureless landscape. Subsequently, over a period of two thousand million years, rock and sand on the surface were washed away by wind and water, to reveal the hard granite below. The balancing boulders are the result of natural faults along the weakest lines, and weathering and erosion did the rest.

Although the granite outcrops are the most outstanding features of the region, the Matobo National Park - within which the Matobo Hills lie - is an area of immense botanical variety with wooded valleys, grassy marshlands and streams between the hills. Most of it is accessible only on foot or horseback, except the Whovi Wilderness Area Game Park, where you have to stay in your car to view some of the larger mammals such as white and black rhino.

Animals are plentiful throughout the park and include leopard, monkey, baboon, impala, zebra, klipspringer, dassie, porcupine, red hare and many smaller mammals. Visitors may be less pleased to know that 39 species of snakes flourish here, particularly the deadly black mamba. The high cliffs and craggy outcrops are a favourite haunt of various raptors which help to keep the snake population in check. In fact, the Matobo National Park boasts the world's largest concentration of black eagles. Other raptors include Wahlberg's eagle, tawny eagle, secretary bird, snake eagle and Peregrine falcon. The dams, too, boast a wide variety of denizens - 16 fish species in all, including exotics such as bass, barbel and salmon.

The rock art of the Matobo Hills compares with the best anywhere in southern Africa, and is predominantly the work of Bushmen who lived in this region for thousands of years. What distinguishes these paintings are their incredible diversity and animation - human beings are depicted playing, running, hunting, dancing lying down and sitting. Animals are anatomically correct, making identification easy, while trees, birds, insects and reptiles are accurately rendered.

A number of these caves are within easy reach of the road. Nswatugi Cave has some excellent paintings, although it does involve a 500-m climb up a steep slope. A short climb will take you to White Rhino Shelter, which also has some good paintings, as does Gulubakwe Cave, which is the nearest to the road.

Cecil John Rhodes lies buried in the Matobo Hills. The hill where he lies is called World's View. This massive granite formation dominates the area, and the surrounding boulders are softened and decorated with lacy patterns of red and gold lichen. In his will, Rhodes made the Matobo National Park a gift to the people of Bulawayo, and his burial place has become a place of pilgrimage for thousands of people since his death. At the foot of the hill is a car park with a picnic site and a display of old photographs covering Rhodes's fascinating life.

One of the most bizarre attractions of the Matobo Hills is the lizard feeding that takes place here at World's View. A ranger, holding out a small piece of cooked maize meal, or sadza, calls out to the rocks. Then, from underneath various boulders, scores of rainbow-hued lizards appear and race across the rocks and even clamber over the ranger to get their share. This spectacle occurs three times a day and is not to be missed.

The choice of accommodation is excellent. All camps have electric power. The lodges are carpeted and furnished to an excellent standard.

To get to there, take the A47 leading to the southwest from Bulawayo. The hills are reached after driving about 32km along the well-tarred road.